The Guide to Taming Feral Kittens
Taming Feral Kittens
The process of taming kittens can take from two to six weeks (longer for some exceptionally skittish kittens) depending on their age and state of wildness.
Individuals can differ greatly in temperament even within the same litter. Any person attempting to tame kittens should be totally committed and patient. The taming process is certainly worthwhile. You are saving lives and producing affectionate loving companions!
Containment
A feral kitten may hiss and ‘spit’ at humans. The kitten which acts the most ferocious is just the most scared, but it is capable of giving you a nasty scratch or bite and will probably try to escape if given the chance. All bites are serious. if bitten, wash out the bite thoroughly with soap and water and monitor the area closely. seek medical attention if necessary.
Feral kittens should be checked out by a veterinarian and tested for diseases contagious to other cats before you bring them home. If a trap was used to capture the kittens, transfer them to a cage large enough for a small litter box and bedding. Place it in a small room away from family pets and children. Be careful not to allow the kittens to escape during the transfer process.
If you do not have a cage, or your carrier is too small for a litter pan, place the kittens in a small room, like a bathroom, in the carrier. Place the litter box in the room and leave the carrier door open so that the kittens have access to the box.
A large room may overwhelm a timid kitten and cause increased fear. Bedrooms can be a problem. If kittens become frightened and go under the bed it can be difficult to get them to come out and stressful for them if you force them out. If you do utilize a bedroom to house the kittens, kitten proof the space as best you can—block any nooks where frightened kittens may enter and become inaccessible to you. Protect vulnerable knick knacks, clothes, and plants (some poisonous) from curious kittens. For the first two days, do not attempt handling.
The kittens must learn to feel safe. Visit them frequently and talk to them quietly, but resist touching. Always move slowly. Use a t-shirt or something else you’ve worn as the kittens’ bedding to get them used to your scent.
Handling
After two days, select the least aggressive kitten, place a towel over it, and pick it up in the towel. If the kitten stays calm, pet it gently on the head from behind. Never approach from the front. A hand coming at the kittens frightens them which may cause them to hiss or bite. If the kitten remains calm, grip it securely by the nape of the neck, put the towel on your lap and set it on the towel.
Stroke the kitten’s body while speaking in soft, reassuring tones, then release. Make this first physical contact brief. Go through this process with each kitten. After all have been handled, give them a special treat. Baby food offered from a spoon is always a great ice-breaker. Repeat this process as frequently as possible.
Brushing with a soft pet brush imitates the action of the mother grooming the kittens and will help the kitten start to transfer its need for parental love to you.
Never stare at the kittens for prolonged periods. This is aggressive body language to cats. Avert your eyes frequently and lower your head often to display submissive behavior. This will be less threatening to the kittens.
Play with the kittens using “kitty tease” toys (a tiny piece of cloth tied to a string which is tied to a small stick) or light-weight cat toys. Don’t leave the “kitty tease” alone with the kittens as kittens will often swallow string. This can be fatal.
Containment II
Each kitten will develop at a different rate. As they get more socialized, they should have free access to the room; place them in the cage only if necessary.
If there is one that is not becoming tame, place it in a separate cage in another room, away from the others. This will allow you to work with the baby more frequently and will increase its dependence on you.
Exposure
When the kittens no longer respond by biting and scratching, encourage friends to handle them as often as possible. It is very important that they socialize with other humans. Feral cats tend to bond with one human so they best adjust to a new home if they are socialized with other humans before being adopted out.
Placement
When the kittens are ready to be placed (they’ve been spayed or neutered, vaccinated, dewormed, etc., in addition to being socialized), they are ready for placement. You’ve put a lot of time and effort into rescuing and taming these kittens, so be sure to take the time to speak at length with, and carefully screen, potential guardians. Establish with them that you’ll be checking in with them for follow up to see how the kittens are doing…you want the kittens to have safe, stable and responsible homes that will have for life!
Possibly Related Posts:
- Forclosure Pets
- The T-N-R Guide for Adult Feral Cats
- Behind the Scenes of the PAWS Admissions Program
- Giving up your Pet?
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how cute!:) oh and my cats kind of hav e worms my question is how should i react to this